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Concrete Staining FAQs








Generally speaking, when there is a problem with patina application, the problem can be traced back to the cleaning process about 95% of the time.  Please make sure to use Cleaner 104 and a scotch brite pad if you are experiencing problems.  You will need to use some muscle and scrub the Cleaner onto the metal as just applying the cleaner and washing it off will not suffice.  Do NOT use acetone, alcohol, any sort of solvent as these things all leave residues on the metal and will have an adverse effect on the patina color.  Even if a piece is sand blasted, please clean it afterwards with Cleaner 104 to ensure the piece is clean and ready to accept patina. 

These are more than liekly hard water deposits.  Try rinsing with distilled water OR rinse again and wipe clean, don’t allow water to set and dry on metal.  Also, sometimes ocean front homes will experience this as the ocean moisture rests on the piece and evaoprates, leaving the salt behind.  A good sealer will protect the color but salt is very corrosive so a heavy duty sealer is recommended for oceanside homes. 

On Brass, there can be a little bit of grayish color. Or if something is Copper but Brass plated and the plating is not too thick, the Tribrown can attack the material.  In these cases, it is recommended to further dilute the solution so that it doesn’t attack the metal that is too thinkly plated.

Electro Cleaner can definitely affect the patina color.  The best method to clean is: Cleaner 104 then wash thoroughly with water then apply C-33, Rinse really well with water.  The C-33 should be diluted as per instructions.   

There are tiny red particles that will develop that are a reaction between the Selenium and the steel.  More specifically, the carbon in the steel.  That is also the source of the rotten eggs smell. The higher amount of carbon, the more reaction.  These particles need to be collected with a filter and disposed of as per county/state law.

Yes, it should. 

Like many of the problems incurred with Patina's, this is probably due to improper cleaning. Clean well using Cleaner 104 or Ajax/Comet in conjunction with a scotch brite pad. Make sure to dilute F-1401 with water as per instructions.  Also, if it is not dried right away, rust can build up and then flake.  Therefore, the part must be dried immediately and lacquered.  

This happens often when you heat and bend the metal, those specific parts are exposing new metal….essentially opening the pores of the metal and exposing them.  Thus, moisture is penetrating and corroding from the inside.  A penetrating wax or oil (such as Metal Oil) applied to these parts can help prevent this from happening. 

Steel with more carbon will turn more blue.  Also, if you leave it on less time, the color will be lighter, or more blue.  Play with dilution rates and exposure time. 

If you are using a bath or have the solution in a tank, you need to monitor the pH and make sure it is between 0 & 2,. If it gets over 4, it probably will cease reacting as it is becoming neutral.  You will need to add more fresh solution. 

Solder has different allow compositions.  The more lead, the better.  The more tin, the worse.  Try and use solder with more lead than tin. 

No.  If they want copper and the look of oxidized copper, they should apply Metallic Copper Coating. 

Ammonia will generally make them more blue and chlorides will generally make them more green.  Add a spray of 1 qt/5 gallons of water of ammonia to turn more blue.  Add a spray of about 1 lb/gallon of water of sodium chloride to make more green.  These solutions should be sprayed on after the parts have been patina'd.  Generally, as the patina is drying but not fully dry.  Again, just a fine mist. 

This is due to over application.  If the product is over applied, it will start to stick to itself and flake.  Make sure to apply a thin coat.  The Spra-Tool can help apply it evenly and in a fine mist.  Clean the part with Cleaner 104 and a scotch brite pad, removing all the patina, then reapply the patina as a fine mist and allow to dry.  

Sometimes the solution loses its potency after repeated use.  With more use, more and more Tin gets deposited on the pieces and so less and less Tin remains in the solution.  The deposit is very thin and with a used solution, it's even MORE thin to the point where eventually, there is no more Tin metal in the solution.  Adding fresh solution will help keep the solution active.  Also, very typical for the solution to turn cloudy and yellow after repeated use. 

In a barrel that is constantly turning so that it deposits the color equally and evenly distributed.  Also, keeping the temp of the tank at room temp is better because at warmer temperatures, more metal is extracted from the solution and deposited on the metal and thus the solution becomes less potent more quickly.  Also, after a night of having the tank not heated, when it is heated in the morning again, make sure to mix it. Add replenisher or fresh solution and make sure to filter the bath. 

Yes, a little bit. 

Need to rinse well with distilled water. Could be hard water deposits as well. 

If it hasn't been on there for too long, acetone may do the trick but if not, paint stripper.

Yes, with distilled water- 10-15% maximum. 

This is the flattening agent that has not dissolved well.  Mix the solution for five minutes and test before reapplying. 

The potash does not do well when exposed to air.  That is why it is vacuum sealed when you receive it.  If you can vacuum seal it again, that would be a great way to preserve it otherwise, put it in water. This is a great way to keep potash fresh.  The material in potash absorbs the moisture in the air and that’s why potash can go bad if vacuum sealed bag is opened and all the potash is not used. Dilution rate would be 1 lb potash per 1 gallon of water.  This will last a long time:  6 months-1 year.  However, it is still too strong to use as patina so you need to dilute it with water- maybe 1 to 1 to use as patina.  More dilution will give you a less black/intense color.  

To remove mold from metal, clean it first with a mild detergent and a scotch brite pad.  Remove as much of it as you can.  This only removes the mold but it does not kill it.  To kill off all the mold and all its spores, use a  10% diluted bleach solution.  Bleach should not affect a patina as it is an alkaline. 

Not getting a consistent color or the color is rubbing off.

White residue after rinsing

Greyish color

Can Electro Cleaner affecting the color? 

What are the red particles & bad smell coming from the filter?

Does it work on Magnesium?

It's flaking off

When the patina'd part is heated & bent, those parts are rusting. 

How can we make it more blue?

The solution has stopped reacting.

The color rubs off after it is applied and rinsed. 

Once applied, will it oxidize like Copper? 

How can you make these more blue or green?


Not turning to Tin. 

What is the best method to apply in bath?

Does it corrode the steel

White crystallization

How to remove?

Can you dilute

What are the white spots when they dry?

It goes bad so quickly.

How can you remove mold from metal?

All patinas

Tribrown- C-1 & all patinas

Tribrown C-1

Black C-33

Black F-1401

Black F-1401

Black F-1401

Black SS-50

Blue Gun 1411

Black N

Black on Solder

Copper on Solder

Green Verde 444 New/Blue Green Verde 445/Blue #11

Green Verde 444 New/Blue Green Verde 445/Blue #11

Tin Look

Pewter Look

Rusty Red-F 

Rusty Red-F 

Metallic Coatings

Metallic Coatings

AL-70 Flat & Trilac 747-Flat


All products